In the early 1980s, while I was attending SFSU as a Psychology major, I entered a particularly significant chapter in my life. Punk and New Wave were big then, and although I didn’t see a lot of African Americans sporting that aggressive and sometimes androgynous style, I gravitated towards it out of necessity.
For the majority of my last year at the school a stalker was making my life unbearable, causing me a lot of anxiety and eventually resulting in a return back home to Los Angeles. My look subsequently went from an ultra-girly ’80s imitation of Edie Sedgwick’s miniskirts and dresses, colored tights, pointy-toed vintage flats, 1960s go-go boots and heirloom vintage jewelry to a more masculine style of tight Levi’s, men’s pants, button-down shirts, vintage men’s blazers, sweaters and coats and high-topped Converse sneakers.
Due to the stress, from the experience, my hair also started falling out and my weight dropped to 110 pounds. I finally decided to solve my coif issues by cutting all of my hair off into a Grace Jones-esque cut. The bad news is the stalker forced me to leave a city and school I adored, but the good news is I transferred to CSULA where I changed my major to Fashion Merchandising, earned my BA, and became a professional fashion/feature writer.
I wish I could tell you that my experience with stalkers ended at SFSU, but following my graduation from CSULA, while working as a Circulation Page at Santa Monica’s Main Public Library I attracted a homeless stalker who caused me additional stress and grief. I finally took steps to legally stop him with restraining orders and regular police reports, then emerged stronger emotionally but permanently disabled with SLE Lupus. Still I was free and that’s all that mattered.
Throughout my trials with these two toxic individuals I was often told the way I dressed attracted others. Often imitated at SFSU, a day didn’t go by when one of my fellow students didn’t come up to me and ask me where I bought my clothes, ask to borrow something, or say I inspired them. San Francisco and Los Angeles had vastly different clothing scenes then, because stylish people abounded and strove to look unique and always wear something no one else either had or had discovered yet.
Today, especially in L.A. while I still loved dressing stylishly, the majority of people I see daily and work with as a Special Ed Instructional Assistant for LAUSD seem to lean towards conformity and hyper-sexuality in uniforms of all-black, skinny jeans and tight t-shirts and leggings with bra tops, tight skirts and sky-high heels.
Bringing Back the 1980s
Lately I’ve seen a reprisal of the ’80s look online, courtesy of model Kaia Gerber, and in Elle magazine. Feeling nostalgic, and a little motivated to inject some personality into two redone looks, I rewrote their visual scripts with color, print and texture. The first one, of Gerber, in a black leather shirt, black top and black joggers or sweatpants I re-did with a forest green trench coat from Forever 21, a pink pullover sweater from Target, and a pair of burgundy joggers from Fallas Stores. Her only spot of color, a pair of navy-blue Converse high-tops I replaced with a pair of multi-colored Harajuku Lovers high-tops. Comfortable and easy to move in, it was the perfect outfit for my doctor’s appointment at Kaiser-Permanente.
The second look, a variation on the Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello shorts, white button-down shirt and black blazer, I re-did with a black and white pinstriped Norma Kamali blaze from the Goodwill Thrift Store on Crenshaw Blvd., a black and white striped button-down shirt and a pair of denim capris from Thredup.com. Dressy, but fun, it was just the ticket for my solo field trip to see Sting’s musical The Last Ship at the Ahmanson Theater in Downtown Los Angeles.
Priced at about $50 for each outfit, the best part of copying these two looks was I did it on a budget and I got to re-visit a time in my life when I wasn’t as empowered or wise as I am today. I’d like to think my openness to change and grow, despite adversity, had something to do with it.
Writing about fashion requires two things-a daily mental consumption of reading material (i.e., books, newspapers, internet articles, etc.,) and at least five minutes a day of free writing in a journal. The good thing about both of these rituals is they can be done anywhere-at the bus stop, on a break at work or in the waiting room at the hospital-with a minimum of effort and equipment. They’re also an excellent way to take a break from the online world of cell phones, computers and other devices and gain inspiration old school.
Since fashion is my passion I buy as many books from the genre that I can to include in my own personal library for research. Below is a list of the top ten books I recently bought and think should go in any fashion book lovers library.
Victoria Moore’s Fashion Book List:
Vogue, the gown, Jo Ellison
Guo Pei Couture Beyond (Exhibit at the Bowers Museum)
The Stylist, Rosie Nixon
Adorned In Dreams, Elizabeth Wilson
Fashion Brands, Mark Tungate
buy-ology: Truth and Lies About Why We Buy, Martin Lindstrom
Bonnie Cashin, Stephanie Lake
Basics Fashion Design STYLING, Jacqueline McAssey and Clark Buckley
Icons of Style: A Century of Fashion Photography (Exhibit at the Getty Museum)
Tonne Goodman: Point of View
Sadly the acquisition of these books will require persistent hunting, especially if you live in L.A., where the number of small independent bookstores are disappearing. Despite that I’ve given you a list of my favorite online and onsite places below.
Mar Vista Branch Library (They have excellent buys at their regular book sales), 12006 CA-187, L.A., CA. 90066, (310) 390-3454, http://www.lapl.org. Hours: Open Mondays and Wednesdays 10-8 pm, Tuesdays and Thursdays 12-8 pm, and Fridays and Saturdays 9:30-5:30 pm.
I wanted to clarify my reason for writing about the beautiful black skirt I bought at H & M in the light of their current troubles over the blatantly racist sweatshirt that’s been recalled by their company. I’m an African-American fashion/feature writer, in a field that doesn’t have a lot of representation from my culture, so I’ve faced my share of racism. Instead of refusing to wear or buy their clothing I want to show them, and others in the industry, the real face of their customers to further educate them about who we are and what we really represent and look like. For me, the only way to confront racism is head-on with unflinching assertiveness. If they learn from this and become a better, more inclusive company, the effort was worth it.
The Ultimate Separate: The Black Skirt
In 1979, when my mother bought a gorgeous black skirt suit by BIS for my high school graduation from Westchester High School from Bullock’s Wilshire black skirts were easily accessible.
But when I wanted to buy the retro boho multi-tiered black skirt from H & M, a couple of years ago, that was featured in a Vogue editorial ad it was a trial. Why?
It couldn’t have been the price, since my BIS suit was $300 and this skirt $19.99. It couldn’t have been the style, since both have classic silhouettes.
Recently, when I bought a stunning green, brown and white vintage 1970s maxi dress from etsy.com for $40, from a dealer in Poland, instead of at my local Goodwill Thrift Store I realized what it was.
Despite the plethora of fashion bloggers, journalists, stores and websites promoting excellent designs and killer buys, the consumer isn’t receiving the message. There seems to be a big disconnect. The clothes that need to be worn as representatives of intelligence and good taste languish un-bought while inexpensive, passe trends are displayed briefly, then discarded on random bus benches and trash cluttered streets.
Anyone who’s paying attention knows by now that needless sartorial waste is a no-no the fashion industry’s trying to correct. Of course we have other problems to deal with besides finding the perfect black skirt, such as the closing of over 130 LAUSD school libraries, homelessness, and the sad reality that L.A. is now the second worst dressed city in the country, and 44th in education. But if a woman does make the decision to purchase one it can solve her immediate wardrobe problems by becoming a reliable staple item that will never let her down. Paired with a crisp white shirt it can take her to work and dinner with a change of shoes and layered over leggings it can easily be worn for dance class.
Looking Back to the 1940s
Edna Woolman Chase (1914-1951) editor of American Vogue in 1942 really understood the magic of a black skirt. “They are as great a standby as a black sweater,” she wrote in the article Skirt Story. Meant to purchased as an “investment piece” it served the same purpose then as it does today by being versatile and long lasting. Compared to trendier fare, ubiquitously worn by everyone who has a pulse, it has the flexibility of hamburger without undue flash.
Blessedly, all-black is no longer as pervasively popular as it once was, making room for the black skirt to make a come back as part of an ensemble that can include a floral print blouse, funky statement tee and vintage embroidered cardigan sweater for work 9-5. After 5, that same blouse and cardigan can be accented with a multi-strand necklace for a fancy dinner date or concert.
For retailers, who mistakenly thought “corporate dress or all-black” would help their sales staff increase their sales and customer service skills with a uniform instead of individual style, the black skirt would help them teach their female employees how to coordinate their work attire appropriately, easily and inexpensively. Since a major component of fashion retail is based on helping consumers buy items for their wardrobe the sales staff that reflects an attractive appearance, from their own imagination, is more qualified to improve a company’s image than a conformist who wears a uniform.
A Wardrobe of Black Skirts
In between my Undergrad years, at CSULA, to my Grad years, at Academy of Art University online, I’ve collected 15 black skirts that have steadfastly helped me look pulled together whenever I wear them. For my day job as a Special Education Instructional Assistant for LAUSD at Leo Politi Elementary School in Koreatown, I’ve regularly worn the long black skirt I bought at Ross Dress For Less with either a cool tee from snorgtees.com or a lightweight pullover sweater from Forever 21, my beige trench coat from amazon.com and a pair of sneakers. Comfortable as a pair of jeans, it’s perfect for my long walks to and from the bus stop, before and after work, and a long six hour shift in the classroom.
I’m just as well prepared for my off-duty social life, with a vintage velour bubble skirt I bought at my favorite Goodwill Thrift Store, and a retro self-belt taffeta one I bought at Ross Dress For Less. Combined with a lovely vintage top and pearls they’re an evening stand out.
The Perfect Black Skirt for Today
“There are few women who can wear every type of skirt,” wrote Christian Dior in The Little Dictionary of Fashion. Personally, I’ve found that to be true of every garment, and despite my thin frame, I still have to work hard to find the right clothes for my budget, lifestyle and body.
Caught between my obligation to always “dress and represent”, as a requirement for AAU, and a need to be comfortable at LPES I wanted to find another black skirt to fit both worlds. My hunt officially started after I’d bought a pair of black sneakers from H & M online. They were too big so I had to exchange them at their store in the Westfield Century City mall. I thought while I was up there, I’d buy the black boho multi-tiered skirt I saw in the Vogue ad.
Everything was going great-they had a pair of black sneakers in my size and the blue and white/floral shirt I’d had my eye on was on the Sale rack. Then when I showed the cashier the ad and asked about the skirt things got shaky.
“I’m not sure we have any left,” she said. “If we do it’s a Petite.”
“May I see it please? I’d like to try it on anyway,” I said.
She asked another clerk, who was working on the floor to see if they had any more, and if they did, to bring it to me. When he found it, he carried it to me, holding it with the delicacy of an Egyptian artifact. He then repeated what the cashier said, “It’s the last one and it’s a Petite.”
“Are you planning on stocking any more soon?, I asked. “No,” he said. “We’re lucky we have this one, because as soon as it was featured in the magazine ad it shot off the racks. Editorial items always sell out quickly.”
“Okay, I understand that, but why was this particular skirt so popular?,” I asked.
“It looks good on almost every body type and it’s versatile enough to be worn with a tucked in or loose fitting top,” he answered.
“Well, I usually wear a Medium, but you never know with sizing, so I’ll try it on and see if it fits,” I said, taking the skirt from him, and heading for the fitting room.
Doubtful, and holding my breath in anticipation, I slipped it on then exhaled with relief when it fit perfectly.
It’s been more than a year since I bought this skirt, and although I haven’t worn it yet, I know its timeless silhouette makes it a worthwhile addition to my collection.
Fashion Coordination Tips for Black Skirts (2019):
Work:Power Separates The Easy Way (Pair a mid-calf A-line black skirt with a white button-down shirt, striped short-sleeved Breton shirt, or plain crewneck pullover sweater, then top with a mini trench coat and accessorize with a structured bag, colorful scarf, shades, and ballet flats or sneakers.)
Casual: Fun, Fun, Fun Days (Pair a long straight black skirt with a t-shirt then top with a cotton, army or denim jacket and accessorize with sneakers or sandals, shades, a baseball cap or bucket hat.
Formal Evening: Swanky Times (Pair a mid-length retro full black skirt with a sequined shirt and decorative cardigan or bolero jacket and accessorize with black decorative pantyhose, pointy-toed flats, a turban and clutch bag.
Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garcons, Japanese Designer. Sweater and skirt, 1984.(Berg Fashion Library)
Bernhard Willhelm. Black with multicolored diamond design sweater, headpiece and skirt, 2002-2003. (Berg Fashion Library)
Junya Watanabe for Comme des Garcons, Japanese Designer. Black ensemble. “Linen blend jacket in the style of a man’s 19th-century tailcoat; wool skirt resembling a deconstructed trenchcoat.” Spring/Summer, 2016.
Woolman Chase, Edna. Fashion: Skirt Story. Vogue; New York, Vol. 99, Iss. 11 (Jun 1, 1942).
Dior, Christian. The Little Dictionary Of Fashion, Abrams, 2007.
The moment I heard Nipsey Hussle had been murdered my mind raced in a thousand directions and my heart sank. Like him, I’ve also supported my ‘hood for years- he as a rapper, me as a professional fashion/feature writer- and like him I’ve never really left it no matter where else I’ve traveled or how much education I’ve obtained. Love it or hate it, it’s home. Recently I even experienced my own symbolic demise when my efforts to help those in need was violently thrown back in my face with the new form of haterism currently en vogue in my fair city.
While Nipsey didn’t come back from his encounter with his ungrateful frenemy, I emerged physically unharmed but emotionally shaken and disgusted. Now, in the second phase of this eye-opening episode, my anger is still there but it’s slowly being replaced with a new mission to carry on Nipsey’s legacy despite the haters.
This epiphany came to me as I walked to the Baldwin Hills Crenshaw PlazaVic from a nearby doctor’s appointment, and saw the large photo of Nipsey emblazoned on the wall of the mall with the words Grammy Nominee Nipsey Hussle Victory Lap underneath. As I went through the entrance. I’d come through many times before, I felt a renewed connection that let me know this wasn’t going to be an ordinary visit-I was going to be that legacy that day-representing and supporting my ‘hood in style.
Before I even left home, that morning, I was inspired by transitions. To match my mood I decided on a boho/athleisure look and chose my black, cream and burgundy varsity jacket from Forever 21, my gray and pink striped sweatshirt from T.J. Maxx and my multicolored Knox Rose maxi boho skirt from Target. Do you know what the best thing about that outfit was? Everything was bought one bus ride away from my home and in my neighborhood. Even though the baseball cap I wore, to accessorize it with, came from H & M and my sneakers and shades from Ross Dress For Less the overall flavor of the look was South Central.
While I was attending CSULA, and earning my BA in Fashion Merchandising, my sartorial beat was Inglewood, California where my favorite thrift shop, Daniel Freeman Thrift Auxillary, was. Now that I’m earning an MA in Fashion Journalism at the Academy of Art University online, my beat includes Baldwin Hills Crenshaw Plaza. Full of memories, from visits with my mother and grandmother while growing up, whenever I have a school project now, it’s one of the first places I check out.
On the day I visited, two assignments loomed over me, an accessory styling one for my FSH 629 (Fashion Styling) class and an advertising campaign one for my FSH 630 (Fashion Marketing Strategy) class. As I ate my fish lunch in the food court and read my assigned reading in my Promotion in the Merchandising Environment textbook, I got to the end of the How to Build a Brand section where it had information about “linked advertising” and had a great idea. I was sitting right across from Victoria’s Secret and a lightbulb went off in my head. “Why not link with Victoria’s Secret for my ad campaign project?” I said to myself. I’m not sure if it was the silent promise I’d made to keep on striving, despite the shock of Nipsey’s death or my own renewed drive, but after getting the information I needed from the manager of Victoria’s Secret I scored some cool Sale geat and styling props from Forever 21 and Albertson’s. Best of all, I even found the perfect necklace, for my styling assignment, at Macy’s.
One sad side note almost marred my day, but considering the occasion, it was apropo. Selena Quintanilla the Mexican singer, who was so senselessly gunned down in the same manner as Nipsey, currently has a posthumous collaboration with Forever 21. Inspired by her sexy Latina style-tight jeans and midriff tops-it consists of pre-distressed skinny jeans, a “graphic tee,” “halter top,” “self-tie crop top,” “black and red cropped hoodie,” “print shorts” and other retro ’80s pieces. It’s clearly aimed at the Hispanic market. When I asked the clerk, who rang me up at the store, who was buying it, at first she said, “Everybody is. It’s flying out the door.” When I then asked her if mostly Hispanics were buying it, because it represented their aesthetic, she clammed up and looked confused.
I hope she didn’t think I was trying to insult her, or her culture, because that wasn’t why I wanted to know who was buying the Selena collab, I was sincerely interested. Personally, although my aesthetic is more eclectic, I do experiment a lot and could see buying the bike shorts and the hoodie. I’d keep them on trend, of course, with a tailored jacket and a pair of wide-legged pants but the sentiment would be the same.
Exhausted, but fulfilled, at the end of my visit I headed home feeling better that Nipsey’s hope for his people and community weren’t gone after all, and were definitely still alive at the mall.
If a person ever needed “Dr. Seuss Read across America” week this year it was me. Overwhelmed, physically and emotionally from all of the challenges in my life right now, I still embraced the occasion and let the magic of it guide my way. First I did two things, I studied the pink and black flyer provided by my school site, then I coordinated my outfits accordingly. Since it’s a literary event, I also wanted to share my love for Dr. Seuss by donating a brand new book to the class I helped in every day.Fa
Monday: Favorite Story Book Character, Mr. Brown Can Moo, Can You?
My first “Read across America” week was at another school,where I picked up a month-long assignment, as a substitute in the resource office.Comparing that experience,to my current one, is like comparing Thing One and Thing Two to Cindy Lou Who. There we reclaimed our innocence but here we just tried to heal and stabilize. Unfortunately the outside world had momentarily forgotten the positive message of the event.
Tuesday: Fox In Socks
Wednesday: Thing One And Thing Two (Dress Like a Twin)
On the first day of “Dr. Seuss Read Across America” week, at my other location, when the resource teacher laid out her collection of lovingly tattered volumes on the main table in a display, she said, “Whenever we do guided reading I want to encourage each student to either pick one, to read alone, or with one of us. If they don’t feel comfortable doing that we can read aloud to them independently or within a small group.”
Thursday: Cat in the Hat Day (Wear your favorite hat)
Friday: Drop Everything And Read (Wear Red)
Carrying On a Dr. Seuss Tradition:
This year I wanted to continue this charming tradition,with my current job site,by bringing in five of my own Dr. Seuss books to share. My plan was to either read the stories to the students,each afternoon,or ask the teacher or another instructional assistant to do it. Through scaffolding I hoped to guide them into a wondrous fantasy world I still love escaping to. Excited by the newness of the Books, the students sat still in front of the other staff and I on their classroom carpet and via a sea of exciting words and visuals traveled on one of their first reading adventures.
With comments like,”that Fox is mean” , about the main character in “Fox In Socks”, it seems they really grasp the meaning of a Dr. Seuss book-to make you think.